Rome in December: What to Expect

Rome in December is a significantly better version of Rome than July. The heat is gone, the tourist coach queues at the Colosseum are shorter, and the Eternal City has a quieter, more navigable quality that rewards the people who choose winter over summer. It's not deserted, Rome is never deserted, but it's a different experience. Early December is the better half of the month. Christmas week brings Italian domestic tourism, pilgrims for the Vatican, and higher prices.

Weather

Cool and occasionally wet. Rome in December averages 6°C to 12°C during the day, cooler at night. Rain is possible, with December being one of Rome's wetter months. The city is entirely walkable in this weather with a proper coat and waterproof shoes. The light in December is softer and warmer than the harsh summer glare, which is good for the photography of the Forum, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon. The Pantheon in particular is a different experience in December: the oculus with winter light, the interior cool, and far fewer visitors.

Crowds and Prices

Significantly lower than summer. The Vatican Museums and the Colosseum both require advance timed-entry booking year-round, but December slots are more available and queues are shorter. Accommodation in the historic centre is cheaper in early December, and the restaurants operate at a pace where they're not turning tables in 45 minutes. Christmas week sees a rise in visitors, particularly for the Vatican Masses on Christmas Eve and Christmas morning, which draw pilgrims from around the world and require pre-registration for access.

What's On

Rome puts up a Christmas tree in St Peter's Square and a large nativity scene, which is unveiled in late December and is one of the world's most visited nativity displays. The Piazza Navona Christmas market is Rome's main December market: it runs through January and has a slightly chaotic, Italian energy that's quite different from the orderly German and Austrian markets. The Presepe in the churches throughout the city, particularly the elaborate ones in Santa Maria Maggiore and the Basilica of Saints Cosmas and Damian, are worth seeking out.

One Thing to Watch

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day at the Vatican require advance registration for the Masses, and capacity is strictly controlled. If attending the Papal Christmas Mass is part of your plan, check the Vatican website for registration well ahead of your travel dates.