The Question Everyone Gets Wrong

Most people frame this as a convenience question: is it easier to drive or take the train? That's the wrong question. The right question is: what do you want to do when you get there?

Your answer to that determines your transport choice.

Getting There by Train

The West Coast Main Line runs from London Euston to Glasgow and passes through Oxenholme, which is the main gateway station for the Lake District. Journey time from London is around 2.5 to 3 hours to Oxenholme on a fast service.

From Oxenholme, a scenic branch line runs directly to Windermere — about 20 minutes, and genuinely lovely. The views through the window get progressively more dramatic as you approach. You'll know you've arrived.

From Penrith (also on the main line, slightly further north), you can get buses into Keswick and the northern Lakes.

Pros of train:

  • No driving on narrow roads
  • You can read, drink coffee, look out the window
  • Cheaper than you'd expect if you book in advance (National Rail advance fares can be very reasonable)
  • You arrive relaxed rather than stressed from sat-nav battles

Cons of train:

  • Windermere station is a terminus — it's one end of a branch line, not a hub
  • Getting between different parts of the Lakes without a car is time-consuming
  • Bus connections have gaps, especially in the evenings and to more remote areas

The verdict: Train makes excellent sense if you're basing yourself in Windermere, Ambleside, or Bowness, and particularly if you're planning to use the lake steamers and local buses rather than driving around.

Getting There by Car

From London, the M6 motorway takes you north. Leave the motorway at junction 36 for Kendal and the southern Lakes, or junction 40 for Keswick and the northern Lakes. Allow around four to five hours from London in normal traffic, longer on a Bank Holiday Friday.

Once you're off the motorway, the roads change dramatically.

What Nobody Adequately Warns You About

The roads in the Lake District are often single-track with passing places. This is not metaphorical. Some are genuinely one lane wide with a ditch on each side, and you'll meet a tractor coming the other way, and one of you will have to reverse to a passing place, and if that's you, it may take some doing.

Hardknott Pass deserves a specific mention. It's one of Britain's steepest roads, with gradients of 1:3 (33%) and hairpin bends in both directions. It's also genuinely spectacular. Don't attempt it in a large vehicle, in icy conditions, or if you're not confident reversing on a steep incline.

Pros of car:

  • Freedom to reach remote valleys (Wasdale, Ennerdale, Eskdale)
  • Flexibility to stop anywhere, change plans, carry gear
  • More options for where to stay

Cons of car:

  • Parking costs add up — most town car parks are pay-and-display
  • Popular spots like Tarn Hows and Coniston get genuinely congested in summer
  • The driving requires actual concentration, especially on mountain passes
  • You can't stop and photograph the view if you're the driver

If You're Driving: Practical Notes

  • Fuel up in larger towns (Keswick, Ambleside, Windermere) before heading into remote areas
  • Some parking areas have a "honesty box" system for payment — have change
  • The National Trust operates several car parks; if you're a member, many are free
  • Sat-nav sometimes routes you through passes you'd rather avoid — check the route before you commit to it
  • Allow significantly more time than Google Maps suggests for fell roads

The Hybrid Approach

Park-and-ride thinking works well here. Some visitors drive to Windermere or Keswick, park up for the duration, and then use buses and boats to move around. This is underrated as a strategy: you get the flexibility of arriving by car without the daily hassle of driving narrow fell roads.

The ConciseTravel Lake District guide covers the transport logistics in more detail, including which areas are genuinely car-dependent and which can be comfortably explored without one.