Paris in November is Paris without the performance. The queues at the Eiffel Tower are shorter, the Louvre is navigable at a human pace, and the city is getting on with its primary occupation of being Paris rather than accommodating the people who came to photograph Paris. It's an excellent time to visit.
Weather
Temperatures range from 4°C to 10°C through November, with frequent grey skies and some rain. Paris is overcast and occasionally drizzly in November but rarely delivers the relentless downpours that reputation might suggest. A waterproof jacket and warm layers handle most situations. The city's covered passages (galeries) and its enormous indoor market culture provide excellent shelter when the weather turns.
Crowds and Prices
Substantially lower crowds than spring or summer. Hotels in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, the Marais, and around Montmartre are at off-season prices. The Palace of Versailles, the Musee d'Orsay, and the Rodin Museum are all more manageable. The Louvre always requires advance booking and crowds regardless of season, but November is the least overwhelming version of it.
What's On
Armistice Day on November 11 is a national public holiday in France, with ceremonies at the Arc de Triomphe marking the end of World War One. It's a sombre, dignified national moment worth observing if your visit coincides.
Paris's Christmas season begins in late November with the opening of the ice rink on the Champs-Elysees and the Tuileries market. The lights along the Champs-Elysees are switched on in mid to late November, making the avenue look exactly like every Christmas card you've ever seen.
One Thing to Watch
Daylight in Paris in November is limited, from around 8am to 5:30pm and shortening. If you're doing outdoor sightseeing, structure your day so outdoor priorities happen before mid-afternoon. Evening in Paris in November is perfectly pleasant, particularly around the illuminated monuments, but the city's parks and gardens are at their dimmest.
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