Getting Around Edinburgh on Foot: Old and New Towns

Edinburgh is fundamentally a walking city. The central areas are compact, the hills are challenging but manageable, and the side streets reward wandering. Unlike many UK cities, Edinburgh doesn't sprawl—most attractions are within a 20-minute walk of each other. But there are tricks to making your feet happy.

The Layout: Old Town vs. New Town

Edinburgh's geography is dramatic. The Old Town sits on the spine of the Royal Mile, tumbling down the hill toward Holyrood Palace. The New Town sits north of this, on a grid of Georgian streets that are flat and orderly. These two distinct areas require different walking strategies.

The Old Town is vertical. Expect stairs, closes (narrow alleyways), and constant elevation changes. It's atmospheric and rewarding, but your calves will know about it. The New Town is flat and geometrical—far less charming, but easier on the legs.

Most visitors split time between both, which means a lot of up and down. Knowing which routes minimize pointless climbing is the first rule of Edinburgh walking comfort.

The Main Spine: The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle (west) to Holyrood Palace (east) in roughly a straight line. It's about a mile, as the name suggests, and it's genuinely downhill the whole way if you start at the castle and walk toward the palace. This is the simplest approach.

Walking the Mile from top to bottom: Start at the castle, allow 1-1.5 hours if you're pausing to look at things. The street is crowded with tourists, overpriced restaurants, and genuine historical interest mixed together. The genuine bits—the closes off the main drag, the smaller churches, the old tenements—are more interesting than the main street itself.

Going the other way (palace to castle): Uphill all the way. It's doable, but unnecessary. Do yourself a favor and walk downhill.

The Royal Mile isn't the only thing worth seeing in the Old Town. The closes—tiny alleyways branching north and south from the main street—are where the character lives. Cockburn Street, Victoria Street (which inspired Harry Potter's Diagon Alley), and Mary King's Close are all side attractions. Budget an extra 30 minutes if you're exploring these properly.

The New Town: A Grid Walk

Once you've descended from the Old Town, crossing to the New Town is straightforward. Waverley Station is basically the border. Head north and you're in the Georgian grid.

The New Town is best appreciated as a whole rather than specific sights. Walk along Princes Street (shop-heavy but the castle views are constant), then cut north to Charlotte Square or east to Waterloo Place. The architecture is elegant and uniform—rows of cream-colored Georgian townhouses that feel restrained and civilized compared to the medieval chaos of the Old Town.

This is where you'd find genuine locals shopping, eating, and living normal lives. It's less tourist-dense, and if you're looking for coffee, dinner, or respite from the crowds, the New Town is your refuge.

Pro walk: Start at Princes Street, walk north on Frederick Street, cut east along Queen Street, and finish at Waterloo Place with views back to the castle. Takes 30 minutes and covers about 2km. It's pleasant and you'll barely see another tourist.

The Hills: Arthur's Seat and Calton Hill

Edinburgh rewards vertical exploration. Two hills dominate the skyline and both are walkable from the city centre.

Arthur's Seat: The more dramatic of the two. It's a 30-minute slog from Holyrood Palace, steep in places but not technical. The views from the summit (822m) are genuinely exceptional—you can see the Pentland Hills, the Forth Bridge, and on clear days, the Cairngorms. Most visitors skip this because they assume it's a serious hike. It's not. It's accessible and the views justify the effort.

Calton Hill: Less dramatic but easier. It's only 100m higher than the surrounding city, so the walk is gentle. The hilltop is dotted with monuments and the views of the castle across the valley are iconic. Allow 20 minutes to walk up from the New Town and wander the summit.

Both are worth doing if you've got decent legs and the weather isn't catastrophic.

Distance and Time Guide

• Castle to Holyrood (Royal Mile): 1 mile, 20-30 minutes walking time (much longer if you stop)
• Waverley Station to Princes Street: 5 minutes
• Princes Street to Charlotte Square (New Town): 15 minutes
• Waverley to Arthur's Seat summit: 35 minutes
• Calton Hill from city centre: 10 minutes walk, 20 minutes to explore

The entire city centre is roughly 2km across. You can walk from one end to the other in about 40 minutes on flat ground.

Practical Walking Tips

Wear decent shoes. The Old Town is cobblestones, close to vertical in places, and genuinely steep. Your flip-flops will regret it.

The weather is changeable. Bring a waterproof layer even if it looks fine. Edinburgh winds can come from nowhere.

Trams run on Princes Street. Stay off the red tram tracks when crossing. Getting your wheel caught is genuinely unpleasant.

Close exploration is the reward. The main streets are crowded and mediocre. The small closes—Wrynd Lane, Advocate's Close, Parker's Close—are atmospheric and empty. Wander.

Hills at night. Arthur's Seat and Calton Hill are lovely in daylight. Skip them after dark unless you know the city.

Maps aren't essential. Edinburgh is small enough to get pleasantly lost and still find your way. The castle is always north, Holyrood is always east. Follow the cobbles uphill or downhill and you'll end up somewhere interesting.