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You cross the Isabel II bridge and Seville changes character immediately. Triana is the barrio that doesn't try to be charming and is more charming for it — a working-class neighbourhood
You turn a corner and there's a plaza you didn't know existed. Orange trees heavy with fruit. A fountain. Two cats. Then the street narrows again and you're not
Most visitors arrive in Seville expecting sangria and sweet sherry. Most Sevillanos drink neither. Here's what actually goes in the glasses at the bars locals use — and how to order without
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