If you're expecting a giant German-style Christmas market, Amsterdam may surprise you. The city's festive season is spread out rather than concentrated in one square. Its best moments are on the water, in candlelit cafés and along the lit-up canals. Here's how to make the most of it.

The Amsterdam Light Festival

The highlight of the season is the Amsterdam Light Festival, which usually runs from late November into January. Artists create light installations along the canals and in the city centre, best seen after dark.

  • See it from the water. An Amsterdam Light Festival canal cruise (GetYourGuide) is the classic way, and boats are heated or covered.
  • Or walk the route. Part of the festival can be seen on foot, which is free and lets you go at your own pace.
  • Book cruises ahead for weekend evenings in December.

Winter markets

Amsterdam has a rotating cast of seasonal and pop-up winter markets rather than one permanent Christmas market. Locations and dates change each year, so check what's on during your dates. They're usually smaller and more relaxed than German markets, with food trucks, crafts and mulled wine.

Festive food to try

  • Oliebollen: deep-fried dough balls dusted with icing sugar, sold from stands across the city in winter, especially around New Year.
  • Speculaas: spiced biscuits, a Christmas favourite.
  • Chocolate letters: a Dutch tradition around Sinterklaas.
  • Erwtensoep: thick pea soup with sausage, perfect on a cold day.

Sinterklaas comes first

In the Netherlands, the big December celebration is traditionally Sinterklaas, on the evening of 5 December, rather than Christmas Day. Sinterklaas arrives in Amsterdam by boat in mid-November with a parade. It's worth knowing, because you'll see the decorations and treats from November onwards.

Brown cafés: the cosiest places in the city

Amsterdam's traditional bruine kroegen (brown cafés) are old pubs with wood-panelled walls darkened by age, candles on the tables and a relaxed local crowd. On a cold, dark December evening, there's no better place to be.

Practical tips

  • Expect damp, chilly weather and short days. Layers and a waterproof are essential.
  • Watch for cyclists, who don't slow down for darkness or drizzle.
  • Book accommodation early, as December weekends are busy and prices rise.

How to structure a December weekend

A winter weekend in Amsterdam works best when you match each part of the day to the light:

  • Morning: museums, before the crowds build. December mornings are dark until around 08:45, so a late, slow breakfast is no hardship.
  • Afternoon: a market or a neighbourhood wander. The Jordaan and De Negen Straatjes are lovely for browsing small shops for gifts.
  • Late afternoon: the light fades around 16:30. This is the moment to head for a brown café and warm up.
  • Evening: the Light Festival. Walk the route, or take a canal boat, after dark when the installations are at their best.

Book Light Festival boat trips in advance for weekend evenings, as the best departure times sell out. If you prefer to walk, wear waterproof shoes: the canal-side paths can be wet and slippery in December.