The closes—narrow medieval alleyways that honeycomb the Old Town—are where real Edinburgh lives. They're winding, atmospheric, sometimes spooky, and almost completely absent from tourist guides. Here's how to explore them.

What Are Closes?

Closes (pronounced "cloz," not "close-ez") are narrow lanes, often with steep stairs, that branch north and south from the main streets. They're remnants of medieval Edinburgh, built when space was limited and people lived in dense vertical buildings.

Most closes are only 2-3 meters wide. Some are steep enough to be stairs. They open onto small courtyards or dead-end in solid walls. They're genuinely disorienting if you don't know the city—you can be lost just 20 meters from a main street.

Why They Exist

In medieval Edinburgh, the town was hugely overcrowded. Rather than expanding horizontally, it expanded vertically. Buildings were crammed together, and the narrow spaces between became living alleys. People lived above shops, in tenements, stacked on top of each other.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, these areas became slums. Sanitation was terrible, diseases were rampant. The closes were where poverty lived. Only in the last few decades have they been cleaned up and recognized as historically valuable.

Best Closes to Explore

Cockburn Street: Not technically a close but a narrow winding street with close vibes. It's picturesque, less crowded than the Royal Mile, and has cafes and shops. Good entry point for close exploration.

Victoria Street: The inspiration for Harry Potter's Diagon Alley (in the books, not the movies). It's steep, winding, colorful buildings. Touristy but genuinely beautiful. This is the most famous close.

Wrynd Lane: A true close—narrow, steep stairs, no obvious shops, completely atmospheric. It connects Rose Street to the High Street. It's empty and medieval-feeling.

Advocate's Close: Another genuine close with steep stairs and medieval buildings. It connects the High Street to the Waverley Station area. Genuinely atmospheric.

Mary King's Close: This underground close exists (sort of) under the High Street. It was buried during the 18th century when new buildings were constructed on top. There's a tour (£15, about an hour) that explores it. It's more touristy than genuine exploration, but it's interesting if you want context on how closes worked.

Parker's Close: Small, quiet, definitely off the main tourist route. It branches off the High Street and descends steeply. Atmospheric without being crowded.

Fleshmarket Close: Used to be a meat market. It's steep, narrow, atmospheric. There's a decent restaurant (Fishers) at the bottom. Less famous than others but genuine.

William Street Closes: A series of closes (William Street, Dickson Street, Pitt Street, etc.) branch north from the Grassmarket. They're genuinely quiet and medieval-feeling without tours or restaurants drawing crowds.

Exploring Strategy

Don't use a map for closes. The GPS will fail, the map won't be detailed enough. Just wander. You'll get lost, but they're all connected and you'll exit somewhere familiar within 5-10 minutes.

Go early morning or late afternoon. Morning (8-10am) and late afternoon (5-7pm) have the fewest people. Midday is busy with tour groups.

Go alone or with very few people. Closes feel atmospheric when quiet. A solo walk is genuinely eerie and wonderful.

Don't expect to find anything. They're just streets. The appeal is the atmosphere, the architecture, the sense of stepping back in time. There are no shops or attractions in most closes.

Climb stairs. Many closes have stairs leading up. They lead to residential streets, rooftops, or dead-ends. It's worth climbing to see where it goes.

What You'll Actually See

Most closes have:

  • Narrow cobblestone or paved paths
  • Stone buildings dating back centuries
  • Stairs where the slope is steep
  • Sometimes small courtyards
  • Resident plaques (historic markers about who lived here)
  • Doors and windows (mostly residential—don't open them)

You won't see shops, attractions, or facilities. There's nothing to buy, nothing to do. The appeal is entirely atmospheric.

Historic Context (Why It Matters)

Edinburgh's closes are working-class history. These were where poor people lived. The overcrowding and poor sanitation made them disease hotspots. The Great Plague of 1644-45 killed thousands in the closes. They were genuinely miserable living conditions.

Understanding this makes them more interesting. You're walking through history that's genuinely tough.

Close Tours vs. Solo Exploration

Tours (£12-15, 90 minutes): Professional guides tell the history, point out details you'd miss, provide context. Good if you want deep historical understanding.

Solo exploration: Free, flexible, atmospheric. You move at your own pace and discover yourself. Better if you value atmosphere over education.

Best approach: Do a tour for historical context, then wander solo to get the atmospheric experience.

Photography in Closes

Closes are genuinely photogenic, especially morning light and golden hour. The stone, the stairs, the narrow spaces create dramatic photos. You can't go wrong. Bring a decent camera (or phone).

Safety in Closes

Closes are safe during the day. At night, they're less safe—dark, empty, no witnesses. Stick to main streets after dark. During daytime, you can explore safely.

The Most Disorienting Close Experience

Walk down a narrow close until you're completely surrounded by stone buildings, separated from the main streets. Stop and look around. You're genuinely in medieval Scotland, separated from the modern city by just a few meters. It's a genuinely strange, powerful feeling.

This is why closes matter. The city can be modern, but you're 30 seconds from something genuinely historic.

Hidden Gems in Closes

Some closes have:

  • Secret cafes: Small places only locals know. Ask around.
  • Independent shops: Vintage shops, bookshops in unlikely locations.
  • Plaques: Historical markers telling stories of specific people or events.
  • Views: Some stairs lead to unexpected vantage points overlooking the city.

There's nothing mainstream to find, but there are dozens of small discoveries.

The Close You Should Absolutely Visit

If you only have time for one: Cockburn Street or Victoria Street (they're semi-official and genuinely beautiful), or Wrynd Lane (if you want genuine atmospheric exploring without crowds).

The Honest Assessment

Closes are atmospheric and genuinely interesting. They're the part of Edinburgh that tourist guides miss. A hour wandering closes teaches you more about Edinburgh than hours in museums.

But they're also just streets. If you're not interested in medieval atmosphere or walking around aimlessly, close exploration won't be satisfying. But if you love atmosphere, history, and getting slightly lost, they're genuinely wonderful.

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